Around Town: Chef Viraf Patel, wife Prakriti takes you ‘Across’ Himalayan cuisine at their Kala Ghoda restaurant

After restrictions were lifted, she spent 2 full years, 2022 and 2023, backmost successful Nepal. It wasn’t conscionable her who missed it—Viraf, her spouse of astir 2 decades, besides felt the pull. “He’s built his ain transportation with Nepal,” she said, reflecting that adjacent though she spent the archetypal 16 years of her beingness successful Nepal, she had ne'er explored the mountains until recently.

“Two years ago, we explored occidental Nepal nether the Annapurna range, and it was exhilarating. This year, we ventured eastbound to the foothills of Everest, wherever we spent New Year’s Eve. The acquisition was humbling,” she recalled. The terrain’s harshness and the simplicity of beingness and nutrient near a heavy impression. “Unlike the occidental region, which is much accessible and tourist-heavy—with cuisines often adapted for a broader audience—the eastbound broadside felt earthy and untouched. We stayed with section people, sharing their homes and eating meals dictated wholly by what was disposable that day,” she added.

‘Across’ features minimalistic design, allowing the absorption to remainder squarely connected its offerings—a thoughtful homage to the simplicity and earthy quality of the Himalayan regions that inspired it. (Express Photo)

“We’ve ever enjoyed the nutrient from that region, but this twelvemonth changed our perspective. Being determination awakened america to the unsocial ingredients and the expanding challenges of accessing them arsenic you ascend higher and the terrain transforms. We wanted to bring a portion of that to Mumbai,” added cook Viraf, who is known for conceptualising and reviving immoderate of Mumbai’s astir notable eating spots and founding the city’s famed Café Zoe (now shut).

‘Across’ features minimalistic design, allowing the absorption to remainder squarely connected its offerings—a thoughtful homage to the simplicity and earthy quality of the Himalayan regions that inspired it.

We began our evening with a revelation—a elemental yet delightful Pomelo Salad (Rs 600). It featured conscionable pomelo and curd, lightly seasoned with cumin powder. We’d ne'er thought of pairing a citrus effect with curd, and we indispensable say, this operation is simply a winner. “It’s not thing you marque connected immoderate juncture but alternatively a elemental crockery that women erstwhile they stitchery unneurotic connected wintertime afternoons have,” shared Prakriti, adding that successful Nepal, cumin and coriander—abundantly disposable successful the region—are often utilized for seasoning, lending simplicity to their cuisine and allowing ingredients to shine.

The adjacent crockery we couldn’t halt reaching for was the Fry Bread (Rs 550), a Tibetan-style fried flatbread that’s a fashionable meal prime among trekkers. Crisp connected the extracurricular with conscionable the close moistness inside, it was topped with melted Kalimpong cheese. Traditionally eaten with chromatic and chutney, ‘Across’ combines these flavours into a spicy scotch bonnet chromatic dip—a delightful premix of spicy tingles and saccharine relief. This dip elevated the dish, making it irresistible adjacent agelong aft the main people had arrived.

While tiny plates similar Timur Potato (Rs 550) and Taro Chips (Rs 625) were forgettable—though the second came with a delicious pumpkin dip infused with cold-pressed mustard oil—we were wholly sold connected the Buff Choila (Rs 700).

Fry Bread (left) and Potato gnochhi (right). (Express Photos)

During a caller sojourn to Nepal, this writer heard the Newari assemblage talk passionately astir their beloved Choila—a crockery of spiced grilled buffalo meat. The edifice lives up to its reputation, presenting beauteous pink-hued buff pieces paired with outpouring onions and nutty reddish atom flakes. The flakes and outpouring bulb adhd a satisfying crunch, but the existent prima is the perfectly cooked meat. The cumin spice hitch gives the buff a chiseled taste.

From the mains, the Potato Gnocchi (Rs 700) and Mutton Curry (Rs 1125) stood out. The gnocchi featured soft, pillowy dumplings successful a mildly spiced murphy broth, topped with a paneer-like caller food that enhanced its subtle flavours. The mutton curry, connected the different hand, was an indulgent delight. Braised for 8 hours, the thick, flavourful curry was reminiscent of dal gosht, with perfectly tender, melt-in-your-mouth mutton served alongside rice. The effort invested successful slow-cooking the nutrient was evident successful each bite.

To headdress disconnected the meal, we sipped connected the Estate Manager’s Evening Tea (Rs 950), a originative instrumentality connected upland evenings erstwhile uncles “pretend” to portion beverage that’s spiked with alcohol. This smokey beverage with bourbon whiskey transported america consecutive to the chilly Himalayan evenings. Served with a portion of somewhat saccharine and nutty Kanchan cheese, it was delightful.

For dessert, we tried the Apple Cremeschnitte (Rs 500), a reimagined mentation of Laakhamari—a crunchy section delicacy made from flour and sugar. Here, it was transformed into a puff pastry with whipped vanilla pick and stewed Himachal apples. While it was an ambitious creation, it fell somewhat abbreviated successful flavour compared to the stellar repast that preceded it.

Where: 5, Hari Chambers, 58/64 Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Fort, Mumbai – 400001
When: Wednesday to Sunday, 5.30 p.m. onwards
Meal for two: Rs 4000 + taxes
For reservation, call 7506128945