David Ellis reviews AngloThai: How to make a stellar Thai? Slow cook for six years

What does this sensation like? Like a crab bisque not conscionable affluent but tart (and who doesn’t similar a affluent tart?), wherever too the gentle crab sensation is simply a fragrant, orangish note, which intrigues arsenic overmuch arsenic it pleases. Or similar the cuttlefish buns, 2 connected a sheet crowned with a clump of seeds and spices, a hairstack haircut topping a cumin bomb. What else? John’s signature, a coconut ash cracker shaped overmuch similar the Michelin angiosperm (I wonderment what he’s after?), topped with crab and a ember heap of caviar, was not ordered (£35, crikey) but arrived arsenic a gift. It was expertly crisp, but almighty crab made a mockery of the timid caviar. Breads were offered arsenic a course, thing I ne'er understand, though the shellfish fig with potent shrimp food was gorgeous — conscionable inquire for it to get astatine the start, with cocktails, not midway done proceedings. Later, trout, swimming nether lilipads of tomatillo, was drowned by a greenish chilli sauce; acold amended was the clever, sunflower effect satay that pooled beside burly, square-shouldered slices of lion’s mane mushroom. Meat successful each but name. Of which, Hebridean hogget raised connected Desiree’s family’s workplace was an expertly stewed and brawny basal for an massaman curry, fantabulous if a small tame.