From Jaipur’s Maharani Gayatri Devi’s closet to yours, the evolution of chiffon across generations

Inspired by her mother, Gayatri Devi popularised the fabric, commissioning yards of French chiffon to make saris that became synonymous with understated luxury. (Source: Wikimedia Commons)

From past China to French haute couture and India’s regal courts, chiffon’s bequest is simply a travel done clip and culture. Today, chiffon continues to enchant, weaving unneurotic centuries of craftsmanship, taste evolution, and enduring beauty.

The origins of chiffon: From aristocracy to couture

Chiffon originated successful past China arsenic a luxurious silk cloth reserved for the elite. Its travel to Europe successful the 1700s brought it into the hearts of French fashion, wherever it earned its sanction from the French connection chiffe, meaning rag. But this sanction belied its opulence—chiffon was thing but common.

“Chiffon has ever been synonymous with affluence,” said Mainak Dey, adjunct prof of textile plan astatine Pearl Academy. “It was archetypal embraced by European nobility for its delicate texture and was aboriginal transformed into a planetary manner statement.”

By the 19th century, chiffon became a favourite of precocious couture, celebrated for its quality to drape effortlessly and its semi-transparent prime that added mystique to each garment.

Kareena Kapoor Khan successful a chiffon sari from Atelier Shikaarbagh

The creation of making chiffon

At its heart, chiffon is simply a weave alternatively than a material. Made utilizing tightly twisted yarns—S-twist and Z-twist—it creates a subtle crinkle that defines its texture. The archetypal chiffon, Mousseline de Soie, was crafted wholly from silk. The process was intricate, with threads spun and woven to execute a cloth truthful delicate it seemed astir weightless.

“Handwoven silk chiffon is simply a rarity today,” said Maayankraj Singh of Atelier Shikaarbagh. “Modern mechanisation has replaced accepted methods, but producing authentic chiffon inactive takes time—up to 7 oregon 8 days for a azygous bale.”

Synthetic chiffon, made from polyester oregon nylon, emerged successful the mid-20th period arsenic a cheaper alternative. Though quicker to produce, it lacks the softness and breathability of earthy silk chiffon. Designer Jaykirti Singh explains, “Synthetic fibres are extruded and woven successful a plain weave to mimic chiffon’s texture, but they don’t transportation the aforesaid tactile luxury.”

Chiffon’s Indian Legacy

Chiffon’s introduction into India is steeped successful royal history. Maharani Indira Devi of Cooch Behar, impressed by the cloth during her travels successful France, envisioned its light, flowing prime arsenic cleanable for saris. Her commissions led to the adaptation of chiffon into accepted Indian attire, mounting a inclination embraced by her daughter, Maharani Gayatri Devi.

The past Maharani Gayatri Devi successful her trademark chiffon sari (Express archive)

“It’s fascinating to deliberation however a azygous cloth could power an full aesthetic,” said Rohini.

Differentiating existent from synthetic chiffon

In a marketplace flooded with imitations, recognising authentic chiffon is essential. Silk chiffon is soft, luxurious, and has a delicate sheen, portion synthetic versions often consciousness plastic-like and overly shiny.

“A elemental pain trial tin archer you the truth,” said Dey. “Silk chiffon smells similar burnt hairsbreadth and leaves brittle ash, portion synthetics melt and emit a chemic odour.” “Price is different indicator—genuine silk chiffon is mode much expensive,” said Rohini.

Chiffon’s improvement and request for revival

Chiffon has adapted to the times, from its origins successful silk to its wide usage successful synthetic blends. Its versatility has made it a favourite for saris, gowns, lingerie, and adjacent location décor. However, this improvement raises concerns astir sustainability.

Janhvi Kapoor successful a chiffon sari from Atelier Shikaarbagh

“Polyester chiffon whitethorn beryllium economical, but it’s not biodegradable. Revitalising chiffon involves promoting integrated silk and recycled fibres portion preserving accepted weaving techniques,” said Dey.

Maayankraj stressed the relation of consumers: “Investing successful authentic chiffon supports artisans and keeps this bequest alive. A axenic chiffon sari is not conscionable a purchase—it’s a tribute to centuries of craftsmanship.”

By embracing authentic chiffon, we guarantee its communicative continues to flow—light arsenic air, enduring arsenic clip itself.