From European emperors to Rajput kings, why Indian textiles are a global treasure

India’s textiles are not simply fabrics—they are humanities documents. The Ajrakh prints of Kutch, with their intricate patterns, bespeak the power of Sindh’s geometric designs and the Persian emotion for symmetry. The muslin of Dhaka, famed for its gossamer quality, erstwhile draped aristocrats from Bengal to Europe, earning it a spot successful the courts of Mughal and European emperors. The affluent weaves of Chanderi silk, originating successful Madhya Pradesh, recovered patronage nether Rajput kings who valued their lightness and elegance successful the tropical climate.

Weaves are not the lone happening that marque India’s textile heritage, it’s the ingenuity of artisans who mastered intensive techniques agelong earlier concern looms became commonplace.

“A textile is present much than conscionable fabric; it has evolved to see eco-friendly practices and modern designs. While accepted textiles inactive clasp their significance, the modern explanation embraces some craftsmanship and sustainability. An ‘Indian’ textile is defined by its heavy transportation to determination traditions, craftsmanship, and taste heritage,” said Neelesh Ranjan, adjunct professor, Alliance School of Design and Creative Arts.

Stars similar Kareena Kapoor Khan are besides pushing the resurgence of accepted Indian textiles similar the banarasi sari. (Source: PR Handout)

In India, the roots of textile excellence spell mode back

According to Saroj Bala, professor, manner and textile department, Pearl Academy, Delhi West, India’s textile communicative begins successful the past world. “The usage of indigenous silk, cotton, and wool tin beryllium traced arsenic aboriginal arsenic the 3rd millennium BCE. Textiles were not conscionable functional but besides symbolic, with references to antithetic fabrics and forms of dressing appearing often successful the Rigveda,” she Bala.

The instauration of techniques similar artifact printing, ikat dyeing, and zari embroidery during consequent centuries further enriched India’s textile repertoire. Each portion developed its ain unsocial textile traditions, influenced by section culture, climate, and resources. For example, Chikankari embroidery flourished successful Lucknow, portion the intricate weaving of Banarasi silk made Varanasi synonymous with luxury.

The planetary prominence of Indian textiles tin beryllium traced to past commercialized routes. Cotton from Gujarat, muslin from Bengal, and indigo dyes were highly sought aft by merchants from Persia, Rome, and Southeast Asia. India was not conscionable a shaper of textiles but besides a trendsetter successful planetary manner during past and medieval times.

The accomplishment of assemblage powers, peculiarly the British, marked a important diminution successful India’s textile dominance. The imposition of British-made goods and the systematic dismantling of indigenous industries led to the erosion of accepted crafts. However, the post-independence epoch saw efforts to revive these crafts, mostly owed to visionaries similar Pupul Jayakar and initiatives similar the Central Handicrafts Board.

The 20th period witnessed the resurgence of accepted textiles, acknowledgment to festivals similar the “Festival of India,” which showcased India’s affluent textile practice to planetary audiences. Today, accepted techniques specified arsenic Ajrakh artifact printing, Phulkari embroidery, and Bandhani tie-dyeing coexist with modern innovations, ensuring that the past continues to animate the future.

The Ajrakh prints of Kutch, with their intricate patterns, bespeak the power of Sindh’s geometric designs and the Persian emotion for symmetry (Source: Wikimedia Commons)

A modern perspective: Growth and innovation

India’s textile manufacture has evolved into a important subordinate successful the planetary textile and apparel (T&A) market. As per the latest information from the Press Information Bureau of India, the state stands arsenic the sixth largest exporter of T&A successful the satellite successful 2023, contributing to 3.9 per cent of the planetary trade. Piyush Goyal, past national curate of textile, said that India was assured of achieving textile export people of USD 100 cardinal by 2030.

According to the report, exports successful FY 2024 were initially debased owed to the geopolitical crises astir the Red Sea, which affected export question during January, February and March 2024.

The aboriginal of India’s textile manufacture lies successful its quality to accommodate to changing planetary dynamics. Digital technologies specified arsenic artificial quality and blockchain are being integrated into accumulation and proviso concatenation management, enhancing ratio and transparency.

The mode up and challenges

Sustainability and circularity person go caller mantras. “The request for sustainable textiles is growing, peculiarly successful the realm of high-performance fabrics and astute materials,” said Bala. This displacement aligns with planetary user preferences for eco-friendly products and opens caller opportunities for Indian manufacturers to pb the sustainability movement.

The aboriginal of India’s textile manufacture lies successful its quality to accommodate to changing planetary dynamics. (Representational record image/getty images)

However, contempt their indispensable relation successful preserving India’s textile heritage, artisans proceed to look challenges. Many conflict with debased incomes and constricted marketplace access, adjacent arsenic their craftsmanship forms the backbone of the industry. Government initiatives similar “Make successful India” and policies aimed astatine boosting the handicraft assemblage connection immoderate support, but much is needed.

Professor Bala notes that collaboration betwixt artisans and modern designers has created opportunities for innovation and marketplace relevance. However, these partnerships often stay confined to niche markets.

“Indian textiles are not conscionable astir fabrics; they are astir the stories they tell, the lives they touch, and the communities they sustain,” she said.

With a absorption connected sustainability, innovation, and artisan welfare, India’s textile manufacture is poised to reclaim its presumption arsenic a planetary leader. However, this travel requires continued concern successful technology, infrastructure, and, astir importantly, the radical who marque it each possible—the artisans.