Memories of Kumbh Melas past: When pilgrimage wasn’t about profit

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kumbh mela 2025Devotees taking beatified dip astatine the slope of Triveni Sangam connected the occassion of Paush Purnima astatine Maha Kumbh successful Prayagraj. (Express photograph by Vishal Srivastava)

Feb 4, 2025 17:13 IST First published on: Feb 4, 2025 astatine 17:13 IST

Kailash Nath Katju, my grandfather, began penning his autobiography successful December 1940. He was successful Naini jailhouse astatine the time, consequent to the Congress determination for its leaders to undertake idiosyncratic satyagraha. In the autobiography, which has remained unpublished, helium wrote a paragraph connected the Kumbh Mela, which I punctuation successful afloat due to the fact that it conveys the feelings of a Hindu who goes to the Sangam arsenic a pilgrim.

“Then the large Kumbh Mela came connected successful January 1918. The Kumbh Mela, regularly for the past thousands of years, held erstwhile successful 12 years is simply a precise special, solemn and ineffable solemnisation successful the period of Magh (January) and attracts millions of pilgrims. The show connected the Triveni grounds is simply a fantastic 1 and inspiring too. You spot Hinduism successful action, truthful to say. Pilgrims drawn from each implicit Northern India flock to the ineffable confluence and for a full month, lakhs of radical unrecorded nether canvas oregon nether thatched huts. The Mela — the Kumbh — is simply a precise past institution, and the Chinese traveller mentions one… helium was contiguous at, successful the twelvemonth 638 AD oregon nearabout — a peculiarly expansive 1 — successful which the past emperor, Harshavardhana gave distant successful gifts and alms each his accumulated treasures worthy 120 cardinal of rupees and the garments helium was wearing. Verily and genuinely is the large Prayag Raj called the ‘Dandbhumi’ and ‘Tyagbhumi’ of India. When I spell to the ineffable Triveni, my caput goes into raptures and travels backmost to the ages and ages during which the ineffable rivers person drawn countless millions of Hindus, arsenic if by a magnet to their ineffable waters. I anticipation and spot the Indian radical volition ever proceed to beryllium inspired by the life-giving waters of these rivers truthful beatified successful our agelong history.”

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In 1918, gramps was 31 years old. In the decades that followed, helium achieved large favoritism successful the ineligible assemblage and participated successful the state question arsenic a faithful follower of Gandhi ji. After Independence, helium occupied immoderate of the country’s highest governmental offices. He returned to his karmabhumi, Allahabad (now Prayagraj), successful 1962, from Bhopal wherever helium was Madhya Pradesh’s main minister; helium mislaid his spot successful the elections held that year. Four years aboriginal came the 1966 Kumbh Mela; helium was 78 years old, suffering from galore ailments. On the greeting of a insignificant “nahan” day, his operator came to maine and said: “Babu ji is going to the Sangam and helium has said that you volition travel him”. I was 14 years old.

Our car was stopped astatine the archetypal car park. From there, it was implicit 3 kilometres to the Sangam. Grandfather and grandson, on with the different lakhs of pilgrims, made their mode to the Triveni. On the mode to and aft a dip successful the life-giving waters of the Sangam, each the mode backmost to the car, gramps related to maine the past of the what helium called the “Hindu race”, of Kumbh Melas and of India. The multitudes successful the Mela grounds, the overwhelming fig of whom were clad successful dhotis and saris, were inspiring him and done his words, helium intelligibly wanted me, his youngest paternal grandson, to summation the unchanging condemnation that these were his ain people, that helium indispensable ne'er see himself chiseled from them and indispensable ever service their interests. Two years later, gramps was gone but the representation of that sojourn to the Sangam and grandfather’s words person ever remained with me.

India has metamorphosed successful the decades since the 1966 Kumbh — truthful has the Kumbh Mela. It whitethorn beryllium a pilgrimage for crores of devout Hindus inactive but it is besides a portion of the government’s imaginativeness of promoting spiritual tourism. This was the archetypal Kumbh Mela organised nether the ruling dispensation which is successful powerfulness some successful Delhi and Lucknow. It would truthful beryllium due to analyse the transportation betwixt pilgrimage oregon (Tirth) and spiritual tourism. That the Narendra Modi authorities is committed to enhancing spiritual tourism is borne retired by the Ministry of Tourism’s relationship of the PRASAD (Pilgrimage Rejuvenation And Spiritual Augmentation Drive) scheme. The Ministry states that the “This strategy focuses connected processing and identifying pilgrimage sites crossed India for enriching the spiritual tourism experience. It aims to integrate pilgrimage destinations successful a prioritised, planned and sustainable mode to supply a implicit spiritual tourism experience. The maturation of home tourism hugely depends connected pilgrimage tourism”.

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There tin beryllium nary quarrel with the government’s nonsubjective of improving facilities, including access, communications, sanitation and health, astatine the ineffable places of each the radical of India. There is besides nary occupation with the authorities incurring expenditure successful assisting the organisation of specified occasions specified arsenic the Kumbh. Indeed, it is the work of the authorities to guarantee the attraction of instrumentality and bid and the orderly behaviour of specified spiritual events successful practice with spiritual and spiritual leaders. The occupation arises erstwhile the concepts of pilgrimage and tourism are mixed together. Why?

The entity of pilgrimage is spiritual and a pilgrim undertakes its rigours for, arsenic gramps noted, “sacred” purposes. Indeed, it tin beryllium asserted that if a pilgrim seeks to bypass, done his wealth oregon authoritative power, the difficulties which an mean pilgrim experiences, past helium is not a pilgrim astatine all. At these places and earlier a deity successful a temple, determination should beryllium nary favoritism connected immoderate account. Thus, the signifier of designated places successful the Mela crushed for officials and the affluent — arsenic it was done successful this Kumbh Mela but began connected a smaller ground earlier — goes against the atom of pilgrimage and is portion of a tourism whose nonsubjective is profit.

The quality coming from this Kumbh Mela is that it promoted spiritual tourism successful a large way. This was close from structure cities wherever the outgo of a structure went up to thousands of rupees per time to nutrient courts wherever pizza outlets belonging to planetary brands and well-known java shops were contiguous for the good healed. They could not evidently tolerate the accepted fare which has been disposable astatine the Kumbh Mela for centuries.

The information is that Hindu pilgrimage and spiritual tourism are lipid and water.

The writer is simply a erstwhile diplomat

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